Raising Rabbits with Chickens
Raising rabbits with chickens is fun and rewarding. Rabbits and chickens make great companions. For six years, I have kept rabbits in the coop with my chickens. Before you add rabbits to your coop, there are a few things you need to know.
Digging
Rabbits’ natural place to live is in a warren. A warren is an underground tunnel system. The tunnels or holes are burrows and contain nesting areas and emergency exits.
Where chickens like to roost and hang out up high, rabbits prefer being down low or underground. Because a rabbit’s habitat is underground, it digs and digs quite a bit.
Security in the run is essential. A rabbit that digs out may not come back. We recommend burying hardware cloth at least six-twelve inches under the ground around the fence. This preventative step not only keeps the rabbits in but also keeps predators out.
Housing
Rabbits need a place of their own. Providing them with a hutch or an area to make a warren makes them feel safe and secure.
The build-up of rabbit urine is harmful to chickens. A clean hutch area ensures that your chickens stay healthy.
Chicken feces carry salmonella, and it can make rabbits ill. Chicken poop accumulates inside the chicken coop. Housing rabbits inside the coop is not an option due to health implications.
Our three rabbits have made a warren underneath our chicken coop. They have two entrances/exits to the run.
Feeding
Rabbits require different nutrients than chickens. Chicken food does not provide the essentials necessary for rabbits.
Rabbits need timothy hay daily. Not only does the timothy hay supply them with nutrients, but it also keeps the rabbits’ teeth from becoming elongated. The blades of hay are similar to sandpaper and act as an emery board on the teeth.
Supplementing the rabbits’ diet with fruits and vegetables ensures they get a good variety of nutrients.
Veggies for Rabbits
- Parsley
- Spinach
- Mustard greens
- Beet greens
- Swiss chard
- Radish tops
- Sprouts
- Arugula
- Carrot tops
- Cucumber leaves
- Endive
- Ecarole
- Frisee Lettuce
- Kale (all types)
- Mache
- Red or green lettuce
- Romaine lettuce
- Spring greens
- Turnip greens
- Dandelion greens
- Mint (any variety)
- Basil (any variety)
- Watercress
- Wheatgrass
- Chicory
- Raspberry leaves
- Cilantro
- Radicchio
- Bok Choy
- Fennel (the leafy tops as well as the base)
- Borage leaves
- Dill leaves
- Yu choyCarrots
- Broccoli (leaves and stems)
- Edible flowers (roses, nasturtiums, pansies, hibiscus)
- Celery
- Bell peppers (any color)
- Chinese pea pods (the flat kind without large peas)
- Brussel sprouts
- Cabbage (any type)
- Broccolini
- Summer squash
- Zucchini squash
Fruits for Rabbits
Fruits are high in sugar. Too much sugar is not healthy for rabbits. Give fruits in moderation. Remember always to remove pits or seeds. These seeds contain small amounts of arsenic. Arsenic is deadly to rabbits.
- Apple (any variety, without stem and seeds)
- Cherries (any variety, without the pits)
- Pear
- Peach
- Plum (without the pits)
- Kiwi
- Papaya
- Mango
- Berries (any type)
- Pineapple (remove skin)
- Banana (remove peel)
- Melons (any – can include peel and seeds)
- Star Fruit
- Apricot
- Currants
- Nectarine
Health
As stated previously, chicken fecal matter harms rabbits. Since chickens are messy animals and poop everywhere, keeping their water in a container with nipples prevents them from using it as a litter box. Also, house the rabbit food in a container to which the chickens do not have access. Chickens use food containers as litter boxes as well.
Fleas and ear mites present problems to rabbits that are in the “wild.” Treating these pests keeps your rabbits happy and healthy.
Socializing
Rabbits are social animals. They love having a companion. When getting more than one bunny, always be positive about the sex of the rabbits. The best combination is a neutered male and female. This pair bonds the best. We do not recommend having multiple male rabbits unless they are fixed. Two unfixed male rabbits fight and cause injury to one another.
Chickens have a pecking order. This pecking order includes rabbits. Some things to consider when introducing rabbits to a flock include.
Slow is best.
Introducing the two species while young is ideal. If not, create an area for the rabbit separate from the chickens. This separation lets each species get to know each other before they intermingle.
After a few days, allow the rabbit to hop around with the chickens. The chickens will peck at it. This pecking is entirely normal. The chickens’ pecking does not harm the rabbit. It lets the rabbit know who the boss is. The rabbit understands these cues.
Room to Breathe
No one likes to live on top of another. This need for space is the same for rabbits and chickens. They require room to get away from each other, room to move freely without restraint. Your run needs to be large enough to accommodate the needs of both animals.
Know When It’s Not Working
In the end, housing rabbits and chickens together may not work for you. If you notice them not getting along and becoming aggressive towards one another, separate them. It is the best thing to do in the long run.
Some Fun Facts About Rabbits
- Monks in southern France in the 15th century domesticated rabbits.
- When a rabbit is happy, it hops up in the air and twists its body. This happy hop is binkying.
- Rabbits can pinpoint the exact location of a sound. Their ears turn almost 180 degrees.
- Baby rabbits are called kittens. Female rabbits are does, and male rabbits are bucks.
- Rabbits rub their chin on things to claim them. Their chins contain scent glands. This rubbing leaves their scent behind.
- Rabbits teeth never stop growing, hence, the importance of timothy hay in their diet.
For more interesting facts, check out the MSPCA’s page.
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Raising Rabbits with Chickens
- About the Author
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I’ve always loved gardening and recently started gardening full-time. I also enjoy tending to our chickens, dogs, and other family pets (a bird, a snake, and rabbits).
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